I’ve been asked what the ideal itinerary would look like if one wanted to explore the roots and icons of Celtic spirituality in Wales. Well, here’s how I’d do it with an essential side trip to the Isle of Man.
Day One
Gather in the early evening at an historic country hotel, of which there are several dating back to the 18th century near Cardiff, the capital city of Wales, for getting oriented and outfitted with any last minute needs. Be sure to learn about the Mabinogi, the Welsh book of myths and legends that relate to the places you will explore along the way and prepare for your sacred journey around the mythic landscape.
Day Two
Today, drive to the romantic ruins of Tintern Abbey in the beautiful Wye Valley and then on to the healing well and standing stones in the nearby village of Trellech. Lunch in the historic town of Crickhowell in the Brecon Beacon hills. In the afternoon visit the castle of Carreg Cennen dramatically perched on a rock with fantastic views over South Wales. Make your way westwards, passing by Carmarthen, Merlin’s town, and arrive at a secluded country mansion retreat I know about in the beautiful Teifi River valley which would be an ideal basecamp for the next four days.
Day Three
Begin the day with a walk through the woods to a mysterious waterfall and pool, one of the entrances to Annwn, the Welsh Otherworld, according to local legend. Then on to the village of Nevern where you will walk on the ancient pilgrim path to the famous church with its ogham stones, legendary bleeding yew trees and one of the finest decorated high crosses in Britain. After lunch in the attractive small town of Newport, visit Castell Henllys, an authentically reconstructed Iron Age village on its original site, and experience how the tribal Celts used to live. Local storytellers will entertain you with tales around the fire in the thatched round-house. In the evening local harpers come to perform traditional Welsh music in the mansion!
Day Four
This morning travel down the coast to St David's Peninsula to visit the beautiful healing well and chapel of the Celtic holy woman, St. Non, perched on the cliff-tops overlooking the sea at St Bride’s Bay. In the afternoon, take e a guided tour of the magnificent Norman cathedral of St David, and make time for an individual wander around the shops and art galleries in this fascinating little city. Plan a date when in the evening there will be a presentation on Ceridwen’s Cauldron by Mara Freeman.
Day Five
Enter into the ritual landscape around Carn Ingli, "Angel Mountain," starting with a walk through a faery-haunted oakwood that conceals a Celtic hill-fort and Druid’s Cave. Nearby is Pentre Ifan, the most famous cromlech in Wales, overlooking Cardigan Bay, once known locally as the womb of Ceridwen. Afterwards, have lunch at a pub on the beach that was one of Dylan Thomas’s favorite destinations. In the afternoon drive into the Pembrokeshire National Park to view the ancient Neolithic and Bronze Age sites of the Preseli Hills, including the stone circle of Gors Fawr.
Day Six
Heading northwards, visit the little Celtic church by the sea at Mwnt, where pilgrims crossed over to Bardsey Island. Then on through Tre Taliesin, named after the famous Welsh bard, and a stop for lunch and a stroll through the lively market town of Machynlleth. After lunch take a walk to a beautiful hidden waterfall in a faery-haunted glen. Then a drive through the mountain scenery and villages of the Snowdonia National Park will take you to a retreat center in its lakeside setting that would be home for the next four nights.
Day Seven
Head north for a day on Anglesey, or Ynys Môn, the Druid isle. This small island offers a panorama of Wales’ history laid out on the landscape, from Neolithic burial chambers and Bronze Age cromlechs, standing stones and Iron Age villages. Visit the chambered mounds of Bryn Celli Ddu and Barclodiad y Gawres, with its mysterious carved stones. In the afternoon spend time at Penmon Priory, with its decorated Celtic crosses, sheela-na-gig, and beautiful holy well, famed for its healing waters. After dinner, listen to the myths and legends of North Wales as told by local storyteller, Fiona Collins.
Day Eight
Approach the stronghold of Dinas Emrys, the hill that is the scene of one of the most famous Merlin legends. Here, try to meet up with storyteller Eric Maddern, who will guide you up the hill and tell the story of Merlin’s prophesy at this place. Afterwards, enjoy a well-deserved lunch in the picturesque village of Beddgelert, followed by a visit to one of Wales’ most romantic castles. For the evening, take an inner journey to explore the archetype of the goddess, Arianrhod.
Day Nine
Embark upon a mythological odyssey down the Lleyn Peninsula, stopping at Dinas Dinlle (the "fortress of the god Lleu") that overlooks Caer Arianrhod, named for the goddess of the Silver Wheel. Then on to the atmospheric holy well of St Cybi, and down to the valley of Nantgwrtheyrn for lunch overlooking the sea. In the afternoon visit the lovely old church at Pystyll, and drive to a sacred place where you can enjoy views over Bardsey, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints" and last dwelling-place of Merlin himself.
Day Ten
Travel south again, stopping for lunch at the historic market town of Montgomery, followed by a walk around its interesting shops and picturesque ruined castle. Afterwards, drive to the stone circle of Mitchell’s Fold, high up in the border hills with views all over Wales.
Day Eleven (through 16 if you go in July for the must see Festival)
It’s up early for the 06:40 train to the Gloucester airport to board the 09:10 non-stop to
Isle of Man one of the six Celtic Nations and check in at the Empress Hotel that will be base camp for the 4 day Yn Chruinnaght Manx Celtic Festival; briefly, Yn Chruinnaght (meaning ‘the gathering’) is a celebration of Manx culture and the relationship between the Isle of Man and the other five Celtic countries (Scotland, Ireland, Wales, Cornwall and Brittany). It includes a number of events with music, dance, language, arts and crafts, lectures and much more.
In addition to the Festival, held in late July, there are impressive historical features including Neolithic tombs, Manx Celtic crosses, Viking burials, castles and forts. At the coast, visit the best places for seals and seabirds. One of the most wonderful undiscovered locations is the Curragh, a large area of wetland habitat and home to wild wallabies. The island also has a rich cultural history, including a Gaelic language and folklore. You can accomplish much of this by rented bicycles (e-bikes available).
Last Day
Alas it all comes to a bittersweet end with you wishing you could stay, possibly forever, and the reality of returning home.