John Day. More than a river.
Any trip to John Day - the river, the fossil beds or the Painted Hills - should begin, or end, in historic Mitchell. Moreover, consider making the Oregon Hotel base camp. Originally built in the late 1800's the current iteration was constructed in 1938. Like the John Day area itself, the hotel gives a sense of time travel. Rooms range from bunk beds and shared bath to king ensuite to kitchenettes.
If you are on bike, and there may be more bikes passing through Mitchell than cars on any given day, then Spoke'n Hostel is a must. It's the Four Seasons of Mitchell. Heck, you don't need to be a cyclist to stay. Discover what a 5-star hostel is like.
Mitchell. Small Town, Big Fun.
Billed as one of the last frontier towns of the Old West, Mitchell is alive and well despite its well- worn past. If biking is your thing then Mitchell is close to Nirvana. Steep and wild is one description. Gravel grinder another. But there are plenty of pavement options all within 1 to 3 miles of town. After the ride gather at Tiger Town Brewing that holds its music festival the 3rd Saturday of June. Or come for the Mitchell Octoberfest usually the last Saturday of September. The Painted Hills Festival is always the Saturday of Labor Day weekend.
The Fossil Beds
We are talking about a 14,000-acre designated National Monument. That's a lot of territory but luckily, it's divided into 3 distinct units so you can plan your activities in bite size morsels. Trying to do all three in one day, while possible, deprives you of the depth and breadth of the Monument. Within its boundaries you can touch rocks 15-30 million years old, find plant and animal fossils 6-54 million years old, and volcano mudflows about 45 million years in age. Admittedly fossil hunting isn't everybody's thing but you will soon get caught up in it all and begin to marvel at the sheer magnitude of the fossil area and science's unearthing of its treasures.
The terrain is dramatic not just from what's under your feet but the 2,000- 4,500-foot mountains comprising three ranges - the Blue, Cascades and Ochoco. Sheer cliffs and rock columns are ever present and provide stunning vistas. 130 species are annual or seasonal inhabitants- 50+ birds, some 40 mammals, at least 14 reptiles, 10 fish and 6 amphibians. Classified as semi-arid does not preclude 240 plants and flowers from taking up residence.
A River Runs Through It
All three units are within the John Day River Basin, the longest un-damned tributary of the mighty Columbia river to the north. The John Day river has it all with long parts of it designated Wild and Scenic including 28 miles through rugged and spectacular canyons. Extraordinary views on either side expose wildlife and magnificent geological formations. It is heaven on earth for rafters, kayakers and myriad floaters. From peaceful eddies to heart pounding white water, enthusiasts often make a 4 to 5-day excursion to Cottonwood. The north fork of the river is coveted canyon wilderness with little access.
A deep yet short distance section of the canyon is called Picture Gorge not just because photographers are enthralled by its raw beauty but by being home to Native American petroglyphs.
Sheep Rock
One of the Monument's three units, Sheep Rock houses the Paleontology Center with an impressive collection of 40,000 fossils from a 50-million-year span. Don't be put off by old rocks. These fossils are captivating and delight children of all ages. Who knew that relatives of tigers, elephants, rhinos and camels once inhabited Oregon!
The Sheep Rock unit is the most visited of the units in part because of the Paleontology Center but also as the National Park Service has located its Monument headquarters here at Cant Ranch. The ranch was built in the early 1900's by Scottish immigrants James and Elizabeth Cant. At three stories it was then an impressive structure and remains so with well-kept gardens and lawns.
By design - this is a preservation and wilderness area for the most part - there are few hiking trails but most lead to spectacular overlooks of ravines and the river or in your face looks at superb basalt formations. There is the namesake Sheep Rock itself. Yes, it can be climbed. But it is an arduous, unmarked, 11-mile affair with rattlers, insects, a scramble and lots of wind. It can be enjoyed immensely without ever getting on top.
More moderate and yet striking is the .8-mile Island In Time Trail or the 3-mile Blue Basin loop trail, the former with a 200' elevation gain and the latter 600' both offering splendid views of the badlands and river valley.
Palisades
There is no missing the least visited of the three John Day 'units' - the Clarno with some of the most dramatic land forms in all of Oregon. There are short hikes each less than 1/2 mile. One, the Arch Trail has some reward after making the 200' elevation climb. A naturally formed arch cut over millions of years into the cliff and a couple of petrified logs are not your everyday find. On the other hand, if you are a budding paleontologist Clarno may delight you with some 175 fossilized plant species including nuts and seeds some 44 million years old.
Nature's Canvas
Until you go it is hard to appreciate the unique beauty of the Painted Hills, the most dramatic of the three units. More than likely you have seen photos or videos that at first glance look like they could be NASA Mars images. If you are a painter or photographer of any skill level the picture of the Painted Hills is at once awe inspiring and compelling.
While the hills (mountains really) look mighty in scale they are in fact fragile, ecologically speaking and great effort is made to restrict visitor access to approved paths and viewpoints. When visiting take the "Don't Hurt The Dirt" pledge. You will see the footprints made by the 4-legged animals especially the elk and antelope whose presence is readily apparent.
It's only a 9-mile drive from Mitchell and you know at once when you've arrived. Some of the most dramatic scenery on earth, certainly in Oregon (designated one of the State's 7 Wonders), stares you in the face. It's not an isolated peak or ridge or valley that has the characteristic red, orange, black and tan striations stretching hundreds of meters, but as far as the eye can see. It matters not that the image is more or less the same as it has been for some 30 million years.
Yet wait a few minutes or walk a few yards and the same view is suddenly different. Every cloud, every shadow cast by sparse vegetation changes the appearance much like rotating a kaleidoscope.
When to go?
Spring is particularly rewarding with the abundance of primarily yellow wildflowers bringing life to the canvas. Afternoons, typically after 3:00 or 4:00 offer the best lights, especially for photographers. It's hard to think that this was once a lush tropical forest with prehistoric creatures roaming about.
Getting Around
One drives through the Painted Hills on the one designated route but only to park and pick up one of the few, but each picturesque trails. The Painted Cove at .4 miles is short on distance but long on beauty with part of it on a protective boardwalk. Most traveled is the .8-mile roundtrip Painted Hills Overlook Trail with extraordinary vistas. For the best views take the Carroll Rim Trail, 2.6 miles out and back.
Camping in the Fossil Beds
Given the ecological sensitivity of the area your first thought may be that camping is scarce. Not true. Sure, you can't pitch a tent or roll out a bag just anywhere and certainly not within the Monument itself but there are dozens of camping opportunities within easy range of the Monument's units. The Forest Service has created this handy map with a comprehensive listing of campsites. Whether sleeping under the stars or in a comfy bed in Mitchell, a visit to the Fossil Beds is a must for Oregon adventuring.