The first thing to know about Texas when planning a visit is its size. Texas is big. Really big. At 268,500 square miles it is larger than France (210,000). But it has less than half the population – 29 mm compared to 67 mm. Like the land itself Texans are by nature large, meaning large on life, big on action. They don’t see many obstacles to getting things accomplished and some non-Texans take offense to this optimism. But underneath an often-wild spirit they are generally soft-hearted and compassionate, neighborly and folksy even if not chatty.
Not all Texans are cowboys by any stretch and the Marlboro man image is more legend than reality. Yet there are plenty of horses and cows in Texas. More than 11 million! To this day horses are regularly used to herd cattle and tend to ranches.
The second thing to know when traveling around Texas is the need for a car. Unlike Europe there is virtually no inter-city rail and certainly none of the high-speed variety. On the other hand, speed limits in Texas are as much as 80 mph and regularly 75 mph when outside urban areas. German drivers will feel right at home on Texas roads. Petrol is under $3/gallon as compared to $9+/gallon in Italy for example making travel by car fast, fun and affordable.
Can you visit Texas in 7 days? Yes. You could also spend a month and only discover a portion of it. 10 days is preferable, 14 better. Most Europeans and Asians arrive in Dallas to start their touring. Africans and those from Latin America generally arrive first in Houston. I am fortunate to have been in Texas many times, perhaps 30 or more visits. In reconstructing an ideal itinerary, I start in Austin, the Capitol.
Travelers can arrive in Austin non-stop from London, Paris and Frankfurt or connect easily via 9 USA gateway cities. My preference is always small, boutique hotels and in Austin that would be Hotel Ella.
Every trip to Austin should begin with the impressive State Capitol building, a gem of 19th century architecture. Situated on a garden hill, it provides stunning views of the city and the soaring, modern skyscrapers. It is both the seat of power for the State and a history museum with free admission for the daily 30 to 45-minute tours.
Very nearby on the grounds of the University of Texas is the Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum. LBJ was the 36th US President who succeeded John F. Kennedy. The buildings include a full- scale replica of the Oval Office. Frequent tours are about $12.
Bicycling is a great way to get to many of Austin’s most popular and interesting places. Bike sharing is wildly popular. In the afternoon I would drive (bike actually) to Lady Bird Lake. Here you can canoe, kayak, trek or stay on your bike for miles of scenic riding. Or take a lake cruise. The lake is actually a reservoir on the mighty Colorado River formed by dams at either end.
I make the ‘lake’ my center point from which I can navigate to and from the surprising beauty and landscape of Austin. Texas is perceived as flat with miles of prairies. Not so. It’s hills are enchanting offering shade, color, privacy, and hidden treasures.
From the lake, Barton Creek is a must-see. 808 acres and nearly 8 miles long, it is lush with vegetation, sheer cliff walls, and refreshing swim areas; or trek the many excellent trails. It is in Zilker Park where you will find Barton Springs Pool, a natural, spring-fed pool that year-round is 68 degrees.
Zilker Park in the heart of central Austin, is a beehive of activity featuring a miniature train ride, disc golf, volleyball and many cultural and entertainment events. Zilker Botanical Garden (25 acres) within the greater Park is a place I try never to miss. There are several gardens within the gardens – Japanese, Rose, Prehistoric among them. And arguably one of the best displays of native plants in Texas. Surprisingly, there is no café but lovely picnic areas.
You will be enticed to climb Mount Bonnel, all 775 feet. That may be high for Texas hills. For the rest of us, a smirk is ok. Often considered Austin’s premier tourist attraction I find it a waste of time. I much prefer to be at the Umlauf Sculpture Garden & Museum, the Blanton Museum of Art or the Elisabet Ney Museum. If you are inclined to walk the steep, 102 steps to the top of Bonnel then you are nearby the Laguna Gloria sculpture garden, small but enchanting.
One does not come to Austin without experiencing its music and food. Just find your way to 6th Street and let your senses guide you. Whole books have been written on Austin nightlife. I can hardly cover it here.
Onto San Antonio a city impossible not to love. And getting here, detouring slightly through the Texas hill country, is itself a special treat full of glimmering streams and mighty oaks. Plus, the cowboy culture. This is Texas we’re talking about. So, let’s first stop in picturesque Wimberley, high on my list of places I want to visit. And let’s get to Jacob’s Well, a thrilling but potentially dangerous pool, 95 feet deep. It is entrance to 4 submerged caves including the State’s second largest, and one whose opening is so small as to require divers to remove their tanks. I will be happy just to take photos. Hey, no sharks!
For more adventure, it’s the 2-hour zipline course with 10 separate lines from 140 to 550 ft spanning nearly a mile. This I will be doing gliding over canyons and creeks. Afterward I’m sure I will try one of Wimberley’s 8 wineries. Yes, that’s correct, vineyards and winemaking in the heart of Texas. Don’t snicker. It’s not Europe or California but friends assure me that I will be pleasantly surprised, delighted in fact, if only for the surrounding nature.
Bandera, my next stop, is one I look forward to. Small in size, only 800 or 900 persons, but big in reputation as the “Cowboy Capital of the World”. Founded by Polish immigrants from Silesia who built St. Stanislaus Catholic Church that still stands as one of the oldest in Texas. The quintessential Texas town was the starting point of the Great Western Cattle Trail in the years 1860-90 with thousands of cows and horses moved yearly to rail lines hundreds of miles north. Thus, the cowboy legacy.
Bandera – the Spanish and Polish word for flag - is the main town for Bandera County, an area 800 square miles, made up of 6 distinct recreational areas rich in cowboy heritage and flush with rivers, lakes and clear streams, the kinds seen in western movies. My only overnight was at Amah’s Cabin at the Silver Spur Dancehall Ruins. The town is a treasure of cowboy legend and culture.
In San Antonio I am met with a beautiful city, one with deep American history and lore, yet tall, modern and vibrant with a multi-cultural composition. Nearly everybody’s first stop, mine included, is River Walk, a world-renowned urban waterway that attracts 13 million visitors a year. Hotel Valencia is a good choice for being at the center of it all. Hotel Havana however is where I check in.
Then I board the Go Rio narrated boat cruise for a short, only 35 minutes, informative highlight tour of the river. During the 2.5 mile ride I get a perspective not possible from the street. Here I prioritize the things I want to see while in San Antonio. From the water I pick out San Antonio Museum of Art, the farmers market and food at Pearl Brewery, Arneson River Theater, an historic open-air performing arts center with an eclectic mix of music and Aztec, a 1920’s landmark building of major motion picture significance.
From the boat I have decided that I cannot miss the 300-year-old La Villita Historic Arts Village for my gallery fix that includes some of the best imported Mexican folk art in America. I also learn that I can skip the Love Lock Bridge, just as one can in Paris’ Pont des Arts.
One does not go to San Antonio and not go to The Alamo, the most visited spot in Texas and one of America’s historically important and admired monuments. Originally a Spanish mission and later a military garrison, the structure has endured since 1724. Surprisingly it is in central downtown. Most think it’s a distant drive. So, walk and take in the many fine shops and cafés to and from.
More surprisingly admission is free, just walk in. There are many helpful docents. I advise for a small fee visiting the Battlefield or enjoying less crowded after hour tours. The central point is the Shrine but be certain to visit the Long Barrack, the well-stocked gift shop with quality items, not cheap trinkets and be sure to include the gardens.
Now, I am off to cosmopolitan Houston, America’s 4th largest city. The 3-hour drive is uninteresting. H-Town as it is known locally has unfavorable weather and worse traffic. Both can be circumvented with careful planning. My destination is the Icon. Normally I avoid chain hotels, in this case Marriott and properties this large (132 rooms). With some prudent shopping it’s possible to book rooms for under $150. The Magnolia is an equally good choice. Both are well located for enjoying Houston. I will not see or need my car again, conveniently parked, until I depart for my final two stops.
International visitors of course want to explore the Johnson Space Center. They should. It is a museum in its own right. At least 10 other exceptional museums in the “Museum District” deserve visits. Among the 19 in total, The Museum of Fine Art, The Children’s Museum, The Menil Collection, Contemporary Arts Museum and Museum of Natural Science. The District encompasses Hermann Park housing the Houston Zoo, a Japanese Garden, McGovern Garden and Miller Outdoor Theater.
The frequently awarded zoo, one of the top 10 in the US, sits on 55 acres and boasts 6,000 animals from 900 species. The grounds include the Kipp Aquarium, a water play park, plus a children’s zoo. The zoo is especially known for its animal encounters where visitors can actually touch a variety of the inhabitants.
Food is essential to the Houston multi-ethnic culture. Dining is a main attraction. Houston has a Southern heritage so expect dishes favored in the neighboring deep south. Latin American cuisine is paramount in Houston with Peruvian restaurants my favorite. Brazilian, Argentinian, and Chilean chefs have put Houston on the American food map. H-Town of course is the zenith of Tex-Mex, a culinary creation of the Tejano people of Texas, the distillation of Northern Mexico and Texan rancher.
Having eaten my way through the Heights and Montrose, Houston’s top restaurant districts, I head north for the 4-hour drive to Fort Worth also known as Cow Town. Dallas and Houston have a cosmopolitan sensibility with world class style albeit Texan to the core. Fort Worth is cowboy Texas where rodeos and livestock remain central to its heritage.
There is much to do and see, some times of the year more animated than others. And for all its cowboy culture you can go, as I do, to the Kimbell Art Museum known worldwide. Here, art and architecture combine and house one of the best permanent art collection in the US with masterpieces by Picasso, Rembrandt, Matisse, Goya and many others.
I find the Ashton and its historic status and location worth the extra price. Parking is irritating at $30/night as is the nightly preservation fee. However, it is perfectly situated in Sundance Square,
The nearby Botanic Garden, the oldest in Texas, is one of my first stops. There are 23 specialty gardens within the 108-acre lush and lavish space that offers a panoramic view of the city, Rose Garden with 2,000 roses, a conservatory, and my favorite, the Japanese Garden with the ubiquitous components of ponds, bridges, bamboo and sculpture-like plantings.
I would never miss the Water Gardens. It is here that water and Philip Johnson architecture are perfectly blended forming pools, cascading water, and terraces all eventually finding their way to a sunken gorge. My visits to Forth Worth always coincide with the Stock Show, an international livestock extravaganza every March for 3 weeks that includes one of the top three rodeos. The show is Texas in all its regalia.
My final stop - and just as easily you could do this itinerary in reverse - is Big D or Dallas as the world knows it. There is a serious rivalry between Dallas and Houston as to which is more important in commerce, culture, and world prestige. This argument will never be won.
Dallas is one of those major cities where ‘downtown’ is not a tightly defined area. Furthermore, Dallas is also known by its sprawl and many suburban neighborhoods each with a deep sense of self. The Highland Park or Bishop Arts District would be your best locations. I am still inclined to choose the Canvas in the Cedars District about as downtown as is comfortable.
The most visited sites in Dallas surround the John F. Kennedy assassination. If that is of interest then it will be easy to organize yourself. Dallas claims to be the largest urban arts district in the United States, situated on 20 square blocks with a rare concentration of cultural attractions. My time is mostly here.
You will find time to visit plenty of the attractions in the area like the Perot Museum of Nature and Science, Klyde Warren Park and the Winspear Opera House. Highly regarded venues and institutions stand side by side in the Arts District, from the superb Dallas Black Dance Theatre in the east to the Dallas Museum of Art in the west.
If your interest is architecture, monuments like the neo-Gothic Cathedral Shrine of the Virgin Guadalupe (1902), with a 200’ spire and 100 stained glass windows are typical of Dallas buildings among the predominantly steel and glass skyscrapers. Take your architecture outside a bit to the Dallas Arboretum & Botanical Garden, an oasis about 15 minutes from city central. This is a Texas size garden that among other events features Dallas Blooms from February to mid-April with over 100 varieties of spring bulbs and a half million tulips! The choice of attractions and live art in Dallas is endless. Find yourself there.
From the Dallas airport there is non-stop service to over 20 international destinations. Getting home is easy. Saying good-bye to Texas may be more difficult. Texans will show you a good time.